Reviewer Cooks...Seared Venison with Rosti and Shredded Plum Cabbage

Storytime. When I was about 7, we were in holiday in Italy, driving along the long, repetitious roads where we found a slightly grubby, though rustic and good natured trattoria. In a restaurant as empty and deserted as this one was, there were no children's menus, those of which are strongly disregarded in where I'm from. So, I bravely and slightly tactlessly order a huge plate of wild boar and venison. My parents, while no strangers to my crazy cooking ways, still insisted on half portions, an idea the miserable waiter took less than kindly, and he served me the huge plate of wild boar and venison ragu.
It looked weird, not like the spag-bol we used to have at home. This had huge chunks of real venison. I gingerly took a bite. It was good. Really good. My dad asked the chef why it was so good. He proudly announced he had been simmering it since 6 in the morning. And half an hour later, I had cleared the whole plate. My parents, who could barely finish their plates, were stunned, and not a little outraged that I had beaten them to the post on finishing portions. That started my venison love affair.
Venison is hard to get, and very expensive in the UK, unlike Italy where it is plentiful. Often I find anyone but the Italians butcher the strong flavour of venison, but good old Emeril has given us a flawed, but decent recipe. We try it out one day and find the venison still raw, the mash to be oddly reminiscent of garlic bread, and the spinach to be boring. So I have kept a few of his ideas, but this is a rehash. When paired with a more delicate rosti patty and a sweet and sour cabbage side, it oomphs the flavour but is still healthy and delicious.

Seared Venison Steaks with Rosti and Shredded Plum Cabbage

Ingredients:
4 venison steaks
1 tsp crushed garlic
3 diced shallots
1 tbsp sugar
1/8 cup balsamic vinegar
1/8 cup cider vinegar
Splash of gin
Small glass of red wine
1/2 cup beef stock
Olive oil

1 kilo potatoes, parboiled until just tender and grated
Olive oil

1 head green dark cabbage, shredded
1/2 glass white wine
1 plum, finely diced
Knob of butter
1 tbsp cream
4 tbsp chicken stock
Balsamic glaze

1. Heat some olive oil in a pan. Sear each steak for 2 minutes on each side. Put on a plate and cover.

2. Crush the garlic and shallots into the pan. Cook until wilted. Add in the gin to deglaze the pan, then add the rest of the ingredients.

3. Reduce this syrup by half.

4. Once reduced, put the steaks back in and cook to your liking. Season well and serve.

Rosti

1. Form the grated potato into a patty like a burger. Season and pat with paper towels to dry.

2. Heat some oil in the pan to cover the bottom. Sear on one side until browned and crisp. Flip over and cook for 6 minutes at a low heat. Make sure it doesn't stick to the pan

Sweet and Sour Cabbage

1. Melt the butter in a saucepan. When it starts to bubble, add the cabbage, the wine, the stock and the cream. Cover and cook on a low heat until wilted. If it ever looks burning, add a tablespoon of stock.

2. Take off the heat, sprinkle on the plum and drizzle on a little balsamic if you wish.